Saturday, July 27, 2013

What I'm Cooking - Spring Vegetable Pasta



I know, I know, I'm a season behind, but that's what happens when you're running about for months at a time being a social butterfly. I'm once again dipping into the treasure trove of my Cooks' Illustrated and trying out a recipe from their May & June 2011 issue.

Spring Vegetable Pasta (serves 4-6)

3 medium leeks, white and light green parts halved lengthwise, washed, and cut into ½-inch-thick slices (about 5 cups); 3 cups roughly chopped dark green parts reserved
1 pound asparagus, tough ends snapped off, chopped coarsley, and reserved; spears cut on bias into ½-inch-thick pieces
2 cups frozen baby peas, thawed
4 teaspoons minced garlic
4 cups vegetable broth
1 cup water
2 tablespoons minced fresh mint leaves
2 tablespoons minced fresh chives
½ teaspoon lemon zest
2 tablespoons lemon juice
6 tablespoons olive oil
  Table salt
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 pound campanelle (or farfalle or penne) pasta
1 cup dry white wine
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for serving
  Ground black pepper

REMINDER: DO NOT THROW OUT THE TRIMMINGS FROM THE LEEKS OR ASPARAGUS.

Even though I read through the entire recipe before starting I still managed to space out and dump all the tough ends of the asparagus into the trash. *facepalm* Thankfully the trashcan was empty and after a thorough rinse they were good to.

Now, since this is CI we're talking about, you know they've got some tricks up their sleeve. The first one is enhancing the flavor of the broth used to cook the pasta.

  1. Take the trimmings from the leeks and asparagus and combined it with 1 cup of the peas, 2 teaspoons of the garlic, the vegetable broth, and the water in a large sauce pan. Bring that to a simmer over high heat and then reduce to medium-low and continue to simmer for 10 minutes more.


  2. While the broth is simmering, combine the mint, chives (which I didn't have so I just left out), and lemon zest in a small bowl and set that aside for later.

  3. Strain your new super potent broth through a fine mesh strainer, smooshing down the solids to extract as much of that sweet, sweet brothy goodness as you can manage. You should still have about five cups remaining, but if you come up short simply add a little water to make up the difference. Dump the solids and return the broth to the saucepan, cover, and keep warm over low heat.

  4. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add the sliced leeks and a pinch of salt; cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until leeks begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add asparagus pieces and cook until crisp-tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Add remaining 2 teaspoons of garlic and pepper flakes; cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the remaining cup of peas and continue to cook for 1 more minute. Transfer the vegetable to a plate and set aside for later. Wipe out pot.


Next we get to the big twist on the recipe wherein CI decides to cook the pasta like risotto by browning in oil and then slowly adding liquid to the pot. This helps flavor the pasta and also gives it a sauce of sorts avoiding the need to have butter or cream.

  1. Heat the remaining 4 tablespoons of oil in the dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add pasta and cook, stirring frequently, until just beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring constantly, until absorbed, about 2 minutes.

  2. When wine is fully absorbed, add hot broth. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring frequently, until most of the liquid is absorbed and the pasta is al dente, 8 to 10 minutes.


  3. Remove the pot from heat, stir in lemon juice, Parmesan, half of the herb mixture, and vegetables. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately, passing Parmesan cheese and remaining herb mixture separately.

And voila! You have a delicious meal that can feed you (i.e., me) for a week. I'm not a huge asparagus fan so I'm not sure I'd make this again just for myself, but this would certainly be something I'd consider making when I was having friends over or if I was going to a potluck. That said, it took me about two hours to make this recipe so it's not something you'd want to do on a weeknight without help.

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